CHAMPAGNE WITH THE CZARS

HOLIDAY DINING AT NIKOLAI’S ROOF

By Doc Lawrence

Alma Sucic (L) with Daniel Rudinger and Elizabeth Fairleigh

ATLANTA-Nikolai’s Roof occupies a hallowed place in the culinary history of not only Atlanta but also much of the Deep South.  A pioneer gourmet leader in Atlanta two decades prior to the ‘96 Summer Olympics, Nikolai’s, originally conceived with homage to Imperial Russia, still hovers high over street life, offering a startling gaze of Atlanta’s evening skyline. On a recent starry evening, it became clear that the mission of this landmark institution is to remain in the forefront of the city's fine dining venues.

Ushering in the holidays with style, Nikolai’s under the command of GM Daniel Rudinger hosted a dinner party featuring Champagne and sparkling wines. Laurent-Perrier, the fabled Champagne house supplied many memorable pours over nearly three hours of celebration in the best tradition of fine dining in Atlanta.

On display was the Laurent-Perrier gilded birdhouse, an impressive container holding a gift bottle that deserves a place under the Christmas tree of someone special.

Esteemed chef Stephanie Alderete’s creations began with amuse-bouche that included lobster bisque served with Francois Montand extra dry sparkling wine. After seating, Alma Sucic, an eloquent spokesperson for Quality Wine & Spirits, described the wines for the evening, offering a concise tutorial of Champagne.

Thus began the tasting of oysters, a threesome topped off with Royal Oestra Caviar, Orange Miso and Prosecco Mignonette and paired with Marc Herbart Blanc de Blancs Brut.

The stage was set for pours of Laurent-Perrier and the initial choice was the Brut Rosé NV, a bubbly that glowed fluorescent pink in the flute glasses. The items served included Foie Gras and Veal, garnished with sweetbread compote, black trumpet mushrooms with truffle honey and Sherry reduction.

The piece de resistance, Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin and Cheeks, blended seamlessly with a regal Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle. A prelude for the finale.

Dessert was skillfully crafted for the occasion by Chef Alderete, a combination of festive flavors elegantly presented. Her Dark Chocolate Torchon with Bourbon Ice Cream hid a subtle salinity that beckoned for more sparkling wines. The Bigaro Moscato, an Italian rosé delight, balanced out the complex tastes, making this a perfect evening.

High above the busy streets and sidewalks of Atlanta, we gathered for a great feast, honoring the culinary heritage of Nikolai’s Roof established long ago and welcoming the continuation of things truly wonderful
through the ensuing holiday season and New Year.