Elegance and Tragedy
I previously published this story. It never gets tired. The menu is accurate.By Doc Lawrence
During the hours of April 14 and 15, 1912 the RMS Titanic
sunk into the icy waters of the North Atlantic. On the evening of the 14th,
passengers on board who were booked in first class dined in luxury. Accompanied
by the romantic music from a string orchestra, enjoying Dom Perignon, wines
from Bordeaux, the Loire Valley, Burgundy and the Rhone, all paired with an
amazing nine-course dinner, they were unaware that this was their last dinner.
A few years back, I walked through the touring Titanic
Artifact Exhibition, covering an amazing 15,000 square feet. I could hardly add
anything original to the stunning impact. Movies, books, folklore and the
accounts of survivors actually make a good composite of the tragedy that still
captivates us like no other disaster except 9/11. The artifacts brought from
the floor of the Atlantic Ocean included china, wine bottles, dinnerware and
many other implements of fine dining and wine enjoyment. Each cup, spoon, saucer,
crystal wine glass and dish seemed to say that fine dining was not only a
Titanic hallmark, but was the basis of a great and fascinating story.
The Ritz Restaurant (as it was called) on board the
Titanic arguably was the finest restaurant in the world. It was for the
exclusive use of first class passengers only. This restaurant was in addition
to the already sumptuous first class dining saloon. The Ritz Restaurant was
under the control of the Titanic’s corporate owner White Star Line, who
appointed Luigi Gatti as manager who they hired from Oddenino's Restaurant one
of the finest at the time in London. The rest of the staff came from Italy,
France, England, Switzerland, Belgium, Holland and Spain.
The rich and famous queued up for the very expensive privilege
of dining at the Ritz, and White Star granted passengers who booked a table for
the entire voyage enjoyed a reduction on their fare. While meals were available
from 8am until 11pm daily-tables were always fully booked-it was the seated
dinner in the Ritz Restaurant that commands the most attention.
A glance through the list of occupations of some of the
dining and kitchen staff brings back a world of opulence and luxury. In
addition to the well-trained waiters, there was a roast cook, assistant roast
cooks, pastry cooks, fish cooks, a soup cook, an iceman, entree cook, the very
important sommelier, barman, glassman, carver, maitre d', platemen and of
course a couple of page boys to take messages and do all the running about. In
all, sixty-eight men and women were employed to give nothing but the best in
service at all times. Added to the dining, cellar and kitchen staff were the
musicians. Edwardian dining often had the added luxury of a string orchestra
and the evening of April 14, 1912 on the Titanic was no exception.
The Ritz Titanic experience on that fateful evening can
be replicated and many restaurants throughout the world are doing this
throughout the spring. The archived menu is available in museums. The menu
items (which I have been served at different restaurants that by necessity
exercised some modifications) included an appetizer of Oysters a la Russe
followed by Barley Soup. Poached Salmon, then and now, is always a favorite of
the rich and famous and was served with Strawberry Sauce Mousseline.
There is much to be said about the wines. The Titanic
carried in its vast cellars fine Champagne, primarily Dom Perignon, noble
Bordeaux, whites and reds from Burgundy, wines from Alsace, the Loire and Rhone
River Valley, Germany and Spain plus the wonderful dessert wines from
Sauternes. I am always content to have Champagne with my oysters and the diners
that night were no doubt served refreshing Cru Chablis from Burgundy for the
delicious salmon.
The meat entrée was filet mignon, served with Beurre de
Truffle. It was paired with the
magnificent Bordeaux legend, Margeaux.
Dessert consisted of Waldorf Pudding with French Vanilla
Ice Cream. Coffee was quite appropriate, but I chose a glass of Madeira served
cold. The acidity in the fortified wine just fits superbly with dessert.
Over 6,000 meals were served each day during the
Titanic’s voyage. Tons of food was stored and it had one of the world’s largest
and best stocked wine cellars. The Titanic took most of the kitchen staff and
waiters into the icy waters of the Atlantic that fateful evening. The maitre ‘d
survived.
Recreating the experience is tasty, cheerful and
respectful. Each sip of wine and bite of Escoffier-inspired fare magically
recalls the events of long ago when dining was elegant. I couldn’t help but
wish to have something like this-well in the future, of course-as my last
dinner with a group of treasured friends.
THE
FIRST CLASS MENU
The Ritz Restaurant
R.M.S. Titanic on April 14, 1912
Each course is from the actual menu. The wines were
in the ship’s heralded cellar, perhaps the best on earth at the time. The
pairings are by Doc Lawrence.
First
Course: Hors D'Oeuvres Oysters-Dom Perignon Champagne
Second
Course: Consommé Olga Cream of Barley-Sherry (Oloroso)
Third
Course: Poached Salmon with Mousseline Sauce, Cucumbers-Cru Chablis
Fourth
Course: Filet Mignons Lili Saute of Chicken, Lyonnaise Vegetable Marrow
Farci-Margeaux
Fifth
Course: Lamb, Mint Sauce Roast Duckling, Apple Sauce Sirloin of
Beef, ChateauPotatoes Green PeaCreamed Carrots Boiled Rice Parmentier &
Boiled New Potatoes- Gervey-Chambertin or Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Sixth
Course: Punch Romaine-Sancerre
Seventh
Course: Roast Squab & Cress-Moulin-A-Vent
Eighth
Course: Cold Asparagus Vinaigrette-Pinot Gris
Ninth
Course: Pate de Foie Gras Celery-Mosel Riesling Kabinett
Tenth
Course: Waldorf Pudding Peaches in Chartreuse Jelly Chocolate
& Vanilla Eclairs French Ice Cream-Madeira.
At least the diners that went down with the ship had the sorry benefit of intoxication, judging by the amount of wine served at the dinner.
ReplyDeleteA glass of wine properly paired with a sumptuous meal course never implies intoxication; it is simply an elegant enhancement to the savory courses served. Dining would be all evening, plenty of time for skilled conversation, a dance or two and treasured time to truly enjoy the culinary delights of the famed chefs with no worries of "turning the tables".
ReplyDeleteBravo Doc! for honoring the memory and offering us a glimpse into an elegant past (which some of us long to experience again!).