A SYNTHESIS OF SOUTHERN FOOD
Our best-laid plans will yield to fate.
And we will say, “We lived. We ate.”
And we will say, “We lived. We ate.”
From “Save Room for Pie: Food Songs and Chewy Ruminations”
Roy Blount, Jr.
By Malika Bowling and Doc Lawrence
Located Near Agnes Scott College |
Decatur’s exploding restaurant scene reflects its unique
blending of the better elements of the Old and New South.
Revival features Gillispie’s take on Southern dishes and
fits seamlessly into booming downtown Decatur. Located in a beautiful home
transformed from a residence without radical alteration, lunch there on a cloudless Saturday combined food, cocktails and wine enjoyed among gentle ambience
like high ceilings, beautiful windows, original hardwood floors and a front
porch that invited rocking chairs.
More than just a popular restaurant, Revival is a showcase
of modern Southern hospitality.
Joining me for a midday feast was one of my favorite
restaurant critics, the accomplished author, writer and commentator Malika
Bowling.
Ready for Pie-Sous Chef Darryl Boyd with Malika |
Doc favored wine, selecting the Austrian white Gruner
Veltliner, [“perfect for daylight dining,”] to accompany his entrée of fried
catfish. The beverage list prompted an observation from Malika: “I believe in
cocktails with weekend meals, be that brunch, lunch or dinner and the Last
Word. The gin cocktail with lemonade was light and refreshing, just the kind
you want during a leisurely luncheon. However, the small wine list has been
curated with fantastic choices and I enjoyed the Pinot Noir that followed my
cocktail.”
Though portions are relatively the same, lunch is more affordable
than dinner with blue plate specials offering a main and two sides for $16. We
shared a lunchtime delight, the southern chowder. “If this is available,”
Malika says, “go for it as it is rarely available at lunch. While the batter on
the country fried steak was fabulous,” she added, “the steak was surprisingly ordinary.”
Doc’s cornmeal-battered fried catfish accompanied by hickory-smoked collard
greens and English peas with country ham earned the proclamation as “a Deep
South winner.”
Beautiful Woodwork Magnifies the Ambience |
Revival and Communion juxtapose pleasant indoor dining with
the free-wheeling, joyous outdoor experience. The relaxed lunch (Southerners
don’t rush daytime meals) was extremely pleasant, thanks in great part to our
fabulous server and the personable sous chef, Darryl Boyd who provided a charming tutorial on St. Augustine, Florida’s legendary Datil pepper.
The pièce de résistance was the original recipe
lemon icebox pie, a sweet finish to a memorable Decatur lunch experience. Roy
Blount, Jr. might want to include it in his next book about Southern desserts.
Note: Revival and Communion are located at 129 Church Street
in Decatur. They offer have valet parking, so you can forgo the parking for a
fee lot up the street.